Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.